1.ALUMINIUM:

Apply our "Zinsser Cover Stain". Sticks to any clean surface. Otherwise an "etch primer". Then apply two top coats.

2.BLEEDING PAINT:

See "Tannin Rich Timbers" this section.

3.BLISTERING PAINT:

The painter's curse! Happens to us all. It's not the fault of the paint, nor necessarily the painter. Most common causes are moisture or tannin, trapped in the timber, brought to the surface by heat. Dark colours don't help.

Remove blister, allow timber to dry. Sand smooth, apply an oil primer, then subsequent coats. Don't put your feet up - the bubbles may reappear.

In that case, repeat the process and cross your fingers.

Blisters on masonry are due to damp. Fix the damp problem or it will just continue.

4. CAST IRON:

If there are excessive coats of paint, remove the lace and have it dipped.

Then, treat the rust with a rust inhibitor, apply metal primer and subsequent coats.

Painted cast iron: Look for rust, treat it, spot prime, apply subsequent coats.

5. COLORBOND (R) :

Colorbond can be painted. Clean well, then apply a coat of "Zinsser Cover Stain" or "Zinsser 1-2-3 Sealer". (No sanding required).

Then apply two coats of "Haymes Gloss Solashield" in your chosen colour.

If you live in Oodnadatta or similar and "Zinser" products are unavailable at the local paint store, use this procedure: Clean, sand extremely well with wet'n'dry sandpaper medium grit, then go with an oil undercoat if finishing in enamel. Otherwise two coats of "Haymes Gloss Solashield" straight on the surface.

6. COPPER:

Apply our "Zinsser Cover Stain". Sticks to any clean surface. Then apply topcoats.

7. DAMP:

Apparent when stains appear or paint flakes away. First: fix the cause. It could be a broken roof tile, leaky flashing, or blocked gutters. Rising damp could be a leaking water pipe, blocked drain, faulty damp course, blocked vents,or excessive watering of the garden in that area outside.

Once fixed, allow the affected area to dry (many weeks), remove any flaking paint, sand and fill. Apply a "spirit based stain sealer" over the lot, then apply topcoats.

If damp can't be fixed, sealing with "Bondcrete" will seal the damp in the medium term, but will also shift the water damage to an adjoining area.

8. DECKING:

We sell and recommend:

• "Haymes Decking Oil" - produces an attractive "oiled" finish.
• "Haymes Decking Stain" - gives colour to drab timber.
• "Intergrain D.W.D." - a water based medium gloss finish.
• "Haymes Paving & Decking Paint" - water-based, available in just about every colour.

Preparation: Verandahs in poor condition should probably be machine sanded, but Heritage Paints & Decor sell liquid rejuvenating products that will revive most water-stained, weathered or grey coloured decking or verandah pretty well to it's original state. Then coat in one of the above products.

9. DOWNPIPES:

Downpipes should be painted the same colour as the wall behind. Downpipe is not a feature, unlike the spouting it's attached to, or verandah posts. Paint to hide your downpipes.

If it's attached to a brick wall, find an old brick and bring it in, or knock away a bottle top size chip from an obscure corner. We'll put it under the computer and match it perfectly. Don't settle for less.

10. DRY ROT:

At some stage the paintwork has broken down allowing moisture to penetrate the timber.

Dig out all the affected wood and fill with "Agnews Water Putty", or a two-pack filler such as "Builder's Filler" or "Kahfill." Follow closely the manufacturers instructions. These fillers won't shrink like conventional fillers, hence they are recommended for large holes.

Paint the surface as you would timber.

11. FLAKING PAINT:

There may be other reasons for peeling or flaking paint, but these are the common ones:

• On plaster - There is "Kalsomine" underneath your paint surface. See under "Kalsomine" this section.
• Again on plaster - Damp is lurking. See under "Damp" this section.
• On masonry or brick - Could be caused by damp or breaking down of surface (powdering) underneath, which is now dry damp. Could be tired mortar. See under "Damp" this section.
• On new or patched plaster - Someone failed to dust the plasterer's residue away. (Paint won't stick to dust). Remedy: Remove peeling paint and check other areas. Dust down, seal bare areas again, apply top coats.
• On inside woodwork -Can be caused by insufficient sanding away of gloss on previous finish, residue of floor wax or similar, or presence of grease or grime on the surface underneath. Remove paint, clean and sand, recoat.
• On outside woodwork - Could be insufficient sanding away of gloss on previous paintwork or ancient paintwork just loosing it's fight with gravity. (New timber can be too shiny and smooth. Sand lightly first, to get a key). Remove flaking paint, sand, fill, prime, paint.
• On galvanized iron - Poor preparation initially. Remove paint - proceed as with "New Galvanized Iron", this section, below.

12. GALVANIZED IRON: (AND ZINCALUME)

NEW: Galvanized iron comes coated in a light grease.

1. Remove grease with mineral turps.
2. Remove turps with sugarsoap or tricleanium.
3. Remove soap residue with clean water.
4. Allow to dry.
5. Apply "Haymes Galvanized Iron Primer" (water based).
6. Apply two coats of "Haymes Gloss Solashield".

OLD: (unpainted)

1. Clean with sugar soap or Tricleanium.
2. Remove soap residue with clean water.
3. Allow to dry.
4. Apply "Haymes Galvanized Iron Primer" (water based).
5. Apply two coats of "Haymes Gloss Solashield".

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED: In good condition.

1. Clean and sand to remove gloss.
2. Apply two coats of "Haymes Gloss Solashield".

13. GREY UNDERCOAT:

Most bright and dark colours such as burgandy, cobalt, royal, chocolate, leaf green, hot pink, turquoise, orange, even bright yellow, etc, require a GREY UNDERCOAT applied first.

Why?

Under the modern tinting systems, and contrary to what you might expect, dark colours, being made from special "bases", inevitably have poor coverage. If you're painting in darks or brights don't skimp on the grey undercoat. Ask your paint shop for guidance.

14. KALSOMINE:

Made of casein and water, it's original name being "distemper", Kalsomine was commonly used on interior walls and ceilings up to the late 50's by which time synthetic (vinyls, and later, acrylics) had taken over.

Kalsomine is a curse. If you have an old house and paint is peeling off the walls and ceiling for no apparent reason (there is no sign of damp), it's probably Kalsomine. Kalsomine, even when first applied, had a tenuous grip on the plaster. One coat stuck okay, two coats just, and three coats gave up the fight. Your last paint job brought it all undone.

Kalsomine changes colour when wet. To test, wet a patch and it takes on a muddy, gray appearance. To fix the problem, all paint companies (if you care to ring them) will tell you the Kalsomine must be removed and scrubbing is one way, using a wallpaper steamer is another. Use a scrubbing brush or coarse hessian and warm soapy water.

When totally removed, allow to dry. Sand and dust the surface, then apply one coat of "Haymes Sealer Binder" (oil based, unfortunately) to bind the surface, or seal with "Haymes Acrylic Sealer Undercoat" with "Emulsabond" (available everywhere) added to make it stick. Now apply your topcoats.

Sorry about the bad news.

15. LEAD IN PAINT:

Lead was used in oil paints prior to the 1960's. When removing suspect paint, wear protective clothing and a mask. Collect the removed paint carefully and dispose of it properly. Keep children and pregnant folk away.

16. MOULD:

Just like weevils live in flour, mould lives in acrylic.

To fix mould inside, improve ventilation and cut the showers back to 30 minutes.

When painting, remove existing mould by scrubbing with Tricleanium, Sugarsoap or a mould killer.

If the mould is likely to reappear, paint with the enamel system - one coat oil undercoat, one or two topcoats of "Haymes Low Sheen Enamel". If painting in acrylics, put "Mould Control" in your acrylic sealer undercoat and topcoats.

Be sure to remove all traces of mould. For outside, insert "Mould Control" in your paint after cleaning away all traces of mould.

17. OUTDOOR FURNITURE:

Restore and maintain timber furniture with "Feast Watson Outdoor Furniture Oil", or paint the furniture in "Haymes Low Sheen or Gloss Solashield", any colour you wish.

18. PAINT REMOVAL:

We stock a new product on the market - "Peelaway", a unique removal system manufactured by "Haymes Paints" of Ballarat. While "Peelaway" can be used successfully on doors and trim to remove stubborn paint, it excels in totally removing layer on layer of paint coatings on large expanses such as brick without damaging the brick face, mortar or tuckpointing. Ring (03) 9817 2222 for more information.

19. PAVING:

We sell and recommend "Haymes Paving and Decking" paint (water-based), which comes in just about any colour you wish.

Also available is "Feast Watson Paver and Sandstone Sealer", which seals without colouring.

20. PICKET FENCES:

Beware! It is likely that the pickets are of a tannin-rich timber (cyprus pine, merbau, treated pine, Queensland Ash, etc). Tannin bleeds through water based paint if not sealed.

Find out what timber it is and if it is one of the above, and you intend finishing in a light colour, first seal with "Haymes" oil-based primer. If following with water-based acrylics allow the primer 5 - 7 days drying time. (Over-night dry for enamels).

Note that dark colours in acrylic do not require a primer. Wipe the timber down with turps to remove the surface oil, wash off the turps, then apply two coats of the dark coloured acrylic direct to the surface.

21. PRESSED METAL:

When painting old metal, first look for any rust spots. If found, treat with a rust inhibitor, (after wire brushing and sanding smooth), then spot prime with two coats of metal primer, then acrylic sealer undercoat. Consider finishing in a semi-gloss acrylic - the touch of gloss will highlight the design. Heritage Paints & Decor sell pressed metal in a variety of designs.

Ring (03) 9817 2222 for a pamphlet and price list.

22. RUST:

If rust isn't treated prior, it will come through subsequent coats of enamels or acrylics.

First, remove flaking particles with a wire brush and sanding. Dust down.

Apply "Haymes Derustit". When dry (overnight) apply one coat of metal primer if finishing in enamels; two coats of metal primer when finishing in acrylics.

23. STRIPED VERANDAH ROOFS:

Not everyone's cup of tea, but then, what is?

For those interested, the striped verandah roof is a legacy from the goldfield's "tent cities" of mid nineteenth century. The bright stripes became the fashion all-over in Victorian and Edwardian homes circa 1870 - 1910, suitably at home gracing an Italianate villa or a single fronted cottage.

The stripes should be regular in width, 550ml (22") - 650ml (26"), adjusted to fit in evenly. The stripes at each end against the wall should be the darker colour, and look best painted narrower 15" - 20", as if chopped off. When planning do a to-scale drawing.

24. TANNIN RICH TIMBERS:

Many timbers 'bleed" an oil that discolours water based paints. The timber must first be sealed with an oil based primer, and if continuing with water based acrylics the primer must be left to dry for 5 - 7 days before top-coating. (Overnight dry for enamels).

Timbers that bleed include cedar, Cyprus pine, Queensland Ash, merbau, Oregan and treated pine, etc. Victorian Ash and Tasmanian Oak (a.k.a. K.D. hardwood), and radiata pine do not bleed. Note that dark colours in acrylic do not require a primer but first wipe off any surface tannin with turps, then wash off the turps before painting.

25. TIMBER KNOTS AND SAP:

Oregan is the worst offender of timbers that ooze sap continuously. We have a product that will seal sap back (including knots): "Zinsser Bin Primer Sealer" (methylated spirit based).

Clean the sap away (try turps), sand smooth, apply the sealer, then repaint.

26. TREATED PINE:

Green (undried) treated pine requires three months weathering before painting, to allow the moisture content to disperse.

Then apply an oil based primer. After allowing 5 - 7 days curing time for the oil primer to harden, apply two top coats of water based Haymes Solashield.

Try this test: throw a little water on the treated pine. If the water is absorbed it's ready to paint. If not, wait a week or two and test again.

27. VERANDAHS: FLOORS:

See "Decking" this section.

28. WINDOW SASHES:

Movable window sashes painted in the conventional acrylics will stick due to the paint absorbing moisture, resulting in expansion within the paint.

The common procedure today is to paint the sashes in enamel (oil) paint, or "Haymes Gloss Acrylic Trim Paint", specially designed for wear and tear areas.

Both of these products eliminate sticking.

29. WROUGHT IRON:

See "Cast Iron" this section.

30. STAINS IN PLASTER, CEMENT SHEET ETC.

Stains caused by water (damp), smoke or possum pee will continue to bleed through conventional water-based wall and ceiling paints.  The area must first be sealed by one of the products listed below, then finishing coats applied.

First up though, fix the damp problem (see "damp" this section), remove any loose and flaking paint and deal with Peter The Possum.  Clean the area with sugarsoap or tricleanium - paint will not stick to smoke or grease.  Ensure the area is dry.  Patch, sand and dust down.

Apply one of the following over the stains:

Methylated spirits (shellac) based pigmented sealer - 45-60 minutes dry or

Sealer binder (turps based) - overnight dry or

Water-based acrylic stain sealer - two hours dry. (Strong stains my require two coats)

All of the above should be available from any specialist paint store.

Now continue with your chosen top coats.

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TIPS & INFORMATION

1. Do not paint in extreme temperatures - the paint will not perform as it should. In hot weather (and hotter surfaces) acrylic paint won't spread truly. On cold days (and colder surfaces) acrylic may take days to dry.
2. Don't paint if rain is forecast. Rain will wash off acrylic paint, and destroy the gloss of enamel. This applies to excessive humidity, and heavy dew the next morning after a cold night.
3. After pouring out paint, or when painting from, always clean the lip of the tin to ensure a firm fit when replacing the lid. Well sealed paint lasts longer in the tin.
4. Cleaning your brush: Enamel - wash in mineral turps, then warm soapy water. Acrylic - wash in warm soapy water. Leave the soapy water in the brush - the lanolin helps the bristles. Store by hanging or lying flat. It is now ready for next time.
5. Cleaning your roller : immerse in a bucket of water overnight. Next day rinse the cover under a garden tap and tip the bucket of water and paint residue at the bottom of the garden. Weeks later, discard the soil in the bin.
6. Use a good quality brush when painting with enamels and save that brush for enamels only. Never allow acrylic to touch the bristles - acrylic dries out the natural oils in the bristles. After cleaning, wrap the brush and place it carefully away. Bring it out for enamels only.
7. When painting doors and fiddly areas such as multi-paned windows, insert a small amount of "Penetrol" in your enamel. With acrylic insert "Floetrol". Both these products improve the flow and are readily available at paint stores. Do not insert mineral turps (unless the enamel requires thinning), or linseed oil.
8. Stir your paint thoroughly before use, and regularly during use, in an up and down and round and round motion, like whipping a cake. Use a broad flat stick or a paint whacker (potato masher style). A round stick is useless.
9. Your builder is not an expert on painting; neither is your plasterer, or necessarily your father-in-law. When painting, the only people to give proper advice are the paint companies via their hotlines (Haymes: 1800 033 431), or a paint shop you trust.

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MIRROR FINISHING

"Mirror Finishing" is a top finish resembling powdercoating or factory-made which can be achieved on doors and woodwork with perseverance and endeavor.  Mere mortals will be happy to go with the usual procedure of fill, sand, undercoat, sand, topcoat.

True "mirror finishing" can only be achieved with a high gloss enamel finish. But, an excellent velvet finish can result with semi gloss or low sheen enamels, or "Haymes Gloss Acrylic Trim" paint, using the following method.

Understand that excessive brush marks in your finished work usually originate from the undercoat, not the top coat. Those brush marks must be filled and sanded prior to applying the topcoat(s) to achieve a superior finish.

Here is a simplified method (previously painted surfaces):

1. Fill all cracks and imperfections carefully.
2. Sand smooth, removing most of the gloss of previous coat.
3. Dust down.
4. Apply one coat of "Haymes Ezi-Sand" (water-based) or "Haymes General Purpose Undercoat" (oil-based) tinted to the colour chosen.  Allow to dry.
5. "Face-fill" the whole surface with "Nordsjo Timber Filler" (comes like toothpaste), using a 2"-3" flexible steel blade (the wooden top ones are best - cost around $5.00), dragging the blade and filler across every flat surface.  Use a putty knife to fill the mouldings.  Allow filler to dry (2 hours).
6. Using fine sandpaper (#320 grit or wet'n'dry) sand and remove the top 10%-15% of the surface until it's smooth like a baby's bottom.  Fill again if necessary, and sand smooth.
7. Remove all traces of dust from the surface and the immediate area.  Wipe clean the top edges of doors and windows.
8. Cover the carpet or floor with clean plastic drop sheets.  Remove any fluffy clothing you are wearing (top painters might strip to their underdaks).  Cover your hair.
9. Declare the area a "No-Go Zone".  When painting doors, perhaps paint them in an isolated room.
10. Use a good quality brush - not one that has been used in acrylic (water) paint.  (Acrylic dries the bristles).
11. Roll the doors if you prefer, using a foam or short nap roller, then "lay-off" with a brush - removes the stipple and mini air bubbles. Laying-off is dragging a damp (with paint) brush lightly up and down.
12. Two top coats are better than one.
13. For improved performance of the paint, insert a small amount of "Penetrol Oil" in your enamel.  For the Gloss Acrylic Trim paint, insert "Floetrol".

*For bare timber or M.D.F. apply an acrylic sealer undercoat or water-based timber primer first.

Our telephone number is (03) 9817 2222.

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