FACT: Most raw or bare surfaces firstly require a coat of primer, sealer or undercoat prior to applying topcoats. Some require either a sealer or primer AND undercoat.

FACT: No good professional painter will skimp on the initial coats - they are aware of the importance of first coats. Follow their lead.

ALL THE FOLLOWING PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE AT "HERITAGE PAINTS & DECOR" Any queries - telephone (03) 9817 2222.

1."HAYMES" ACRYLIC SEALER UNDERCOAT (Water based):

* Eliminates excessive absorbency * Standardises (evens out) patches or filled surfaces * Improves coverage of subsequent topcoats * Seals M.D.F. (Craftwood and Customwood) * Acts as first coat on bare timber (interior) * Etc.

2. "HAYMES" SEALER BINDER (Oil based):

* Seals cured hard plaster * Seals black smoke and water stains * Seals tannins in oil-rich timbers * Binds chalky surfaces (Kalsomine should first be removed)* Etc. Can be over-coated in water based acrylic or enamel.

3. "HAYMES" WOOD PRIMER (White) (Oil Based):

* Primes timber prior to undercoat and/or topcoats * Seals back tannins in oil-rich timbers *Adds fill to bare timber * Increases the life of (exterior) paintwork * Etc. Can be overcoated in water-based acrylic or enamel.

TIP: If intending to overcoat in water-based acrylic, allow the oil primer 5 - 7 days drying time.

4. "HAYMES" ACRYLIC TIMBER PRIMER (Water-based):

* Primes timber prior to under coat and/or topcoats *Adds fill to bare timber * Increases the life of paintwork (exterior) * Etc. Will not seal back tannin.

5. "HAYMES" GENERAL PURPOSE UNDERCOAT (Oil-based):

* Provides a key over primer, bare timber (interior), and well sanded, previously painted surfaces * Adds fill and provides a thick coating easily sanded smooth ready for topcoats * Increases the life of enamels (exterior) * Etc. Can be over-coated in water-based acrylic or enamel.

NOTE that "Haymes" produce a special "Dark Grey" undercoat to go under dark topcoats such as the Heritage reds and greens, to improve coverage and longevity.

6."HAYMES" ACRYLIC TRIM UNDERCOAT (Water based):

* Recommended as the preferred undercoat (along with "Ezi-Sand") under "HAYMES" GLOSS ACRYLIC TRIM PAINT * High-fill improves flow and coverage. * Interior/Exterior.

7. "HAYMES" EZY-SAND UNDERCOAT (Water-based):

* A thick, easy-to-sand undercoat for interior surfaces when excessive fill is required *Sands smooth quickly to enable a superior finish under enamel or acrylic.

8. "HAYMES" METAL PRIMER (Oil-based):

* Primes bare metal (not galvanized iron) after rust (if any) has been treated. * Comes in red or grey.

TIP: If intending to topcoat in water-based acrylic apply two coats of metal primer to ensure a 100% coverage of the metal.

9. "HAYMES" GALVANIZED IRON PRIMER (Water-based):

* As the name says, it prepares bare galvanized iron (new or old) for the next coats. *For painting "Colorbond" see below.

10."ZINSSER" COVER- STAIN PRIMER SEALER (Oil-based):

* A quick drying (one hour) general purpose undercoat * Sticks to glossy surfaces such as gloss paint, laminex, ceramic tiles, glass, aluminium, powdercoat, Colorbond etc * No sanding required * Perfect for gloss walls and ceilings * Surfaces must be clean, dry and free of grease * Seals back smoke and water stains, tannins etc * Blocks out dark colours * Etc. Can be over-coated in water-based acrylic or enamel.

11. "ZINSSER" 1-2-3 PRIMER SEALER (Water-based):

* A quick drying (one hour) water clean-up sealer undercoat * Does everything Cover-stain (above) does, only it's water-based.

12."ZINSSER" BIN PRIMER SEALER (Methylated Spirit based):

* A very quick drying (45 minutes) smoke and water stain sealer * Seals back knots and sap stains in exterior timbers * Seals graffiti and texta etc *Also comes in a spray-pack.

13. OTHER SEALERS -

Are available for brick, paver, tiles, sandstone, terrazzo, cedar, concrete, pebble-finish, verandah floors, outdoor furniture, etc.

WHERE AND WHAT TO DO

NOTE: Undercoats should be tinted (coloured) up to the finish colour to improve coverage.
For medium to dark colours use a "grey" tinted undercoat. If unsure, ask your paint shop.

INTERIOR:

PLASTERBOARD:

NEW: Apply one coat of "Haymes" Acrylic Sealer Undercoat.

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED: No sealers or undercoats required (other than patched areas and chalky surfaces). *Apply two top-coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen or Flat Acrylic.

SOLID PLASTER: (HARD PLASTER):

NEW: Leave 4 to 6 weeks to fully cure, then apply "Haymes" Sealer Binder (Oil Based).

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED: Apply two top-coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen or Flat Acrylic.

TIP: Use a flat paint on ceilings to hide likely imperfections otherwise highlighted by sheen finishes.

TIMBER: INCLUDING TRIMS, DOORS AND CUPBOARDS:

NEW: The timber first needs sealing. Apply one coat of whichever is convenient -

"Haymes" Acrylic Sealer Undercoat, or

"Haymes" Acrylic Timber Primer, or

"Haymes" Acrylic Trim Undercoat, or

"Haymes" Ezy-sand Acrylic Undercoat.

(All 2 - 3 hours dry)

OR *Use an oil primer or undercoat (overnight dry or longer)

THEN: *Apply another (tinted) undercoat - an "oil" undercoat when finishing in enamel, and the "Trim" undercoat when finishing in "Haymes" Gloss Acrylic Trim paint.

NOW * You have a good base to apply your topcoat, or two topcoats if preferred.

NOTE: *Some will opt for only the initial undercoat/primer, then two topcoats. It's an alternative that falters under scrutiny.

See also "Mirror Finishing" for a superior technique.

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED: After sanding, some will apply topcoats direct to the surface. The recommended procedure is to apply a (tinted) undercoat first - "oil" for enamel, "Trim" for acrylic. Then finish in one or two topcoats.

M.D.F. (MEDIUM DENSITY FIBREBOARD) - (also known as "Craftwood or"Customwood")

*Same procedure as for timber.

TIP: Do not coat M.D.F. first up in oil undercoat or oil primer. It may activate waxes within the board. Always use a water-based product first.

EXTERIOR:

BRICK, RENDER, STUCCO, STONE, BAGGED BRICK, ROUGHCAST:

NEW: Curing periods vary with each surface. Telephone "Haymes" on 1800 033431 to check the correct procedure. Finish in two coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen Solashield.

TIP: Use Gloss if you prefer, but masonry and brick appear more natural in a low sheen finish.

OLD (UNPAINTED): Usually, two coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen Solashield applied straight to the (cleaned) surface is sufficient. If the surface is obviously porous or excessively patched, first apply a coat of "Haymes" Acrylic Sealer Undercoat .

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED:
Poor condition: Wire- brush loose and flaking paint. Seal with "Haymes" Acrylic Sealer Undercoat prior to applying two coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen Solashield.
Good condition: Sand gloss away (if any). Clean down. Apply two coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen Solashield.

TIP: Firstly check for damp of which flaking paint can be a result. If damp is evident, fix the problem. Allow some weeks to dry, then apply "Bondcrete", followed by your topcoats.

TIMBER:

BARE (UNPAINTED): All bare timber outside requires a "primer" except for:
* When finishing in a medium to dark colour in acrylics (water-based).
* When you can't be bothered.

The purpose of a primer is to key to the timber and add fill. It's logical that the addition of a primer will add to the life of the paintwork.

Oil primers also seal back tannin prevalent in cedar, cyprus pine, merbau, oregan, etc. It makes sense to prime these timbers rather than add, when they bleed, a third coat of acrylic (which may or may not work), which is what some paint companies recommend. The acrylics aren't that good, yet.

Apply your primer (oil or water as the case demands), then oil-based undercoat and one or two topcoats of high gloss enamel

OR

the acrylic system of two topcoats.

Note that acrylic can be painted over oil primer. First allow the oil primer to cure for 5-7 days.

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED: Clean, treat mould (if any), remove flaking paint, fill where necessary, sand smooth removing much of the gloss.

Using oil or water based primer, spot prime the bare patches followed by an oil undercoat over the whole surface to be painted, then:

Apply one or two coats of "Haymes" High Gloss Enamel

OR

After priming, apply two top coats of "Haymes" Low Sheen or Gloss Solashield (water-based). Low Sheen is suggested for weatherboards - Gloss for trims.

If your weatherboards and trim are painted in enamel, and you are changing to arcrylics, sand the surface first to remove the gloss then apply and arcrylic undercoat followed by two topcoats.

Enamels versus acrylics?

Modern acrylics are more environmentally friendly, quicker drying, easier to use, more elastic, and longer lasting than enamel. Enamel is recommended for doors and sash-style windows, as is "Haymes" Gloss Acrylic Trim Paint.

Removal of old paint may present a lead hazard. Click on "Troubleshooting" for procedure.

For painting galvanized iron, cast iron, wrought iron, down pipes, tannin rich timbers such as used in picket fences and cedar windows, etc, decking, treated pine, roofs, verandah floors, paving etc, click on "Troubleshooting".

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