Welcome to the revolutionary Colour Web - the smart way to choose colour for your home.

The Colour Web is a unique colour system which simplifies colour selection, making the task of matching various depths of shade quicker and easier. This system is only available with Our Colours. On selecting any core colour from our range, we can achieve, very simply, darker or lighter depths (strengths) of that colour. Half the depth, quarter depth, double or triple depth and so on. It really is simple as you will see:

Any degree of depth can be teamed with another, and another, for a tone on tone effect. All interlocking, like a Spider's "Web", they must work together because they are of the exact same family, or Core.

For example:

The Core Range is comprehensive - a cross section of selected shades is featured next page. Exclusive to HERITAGE PAINTS, the colours, many based on classical fabrics and wallpapers, have been developed over some years. All the colours and their various depths are instantly available in-store, displayed on large manilla folder size (A3) boards, for easy handling and selection, and in sample tins/test pots for you to borrow. Borrow the tins, borrow the A3 boards - return them a couple of days later and borrow others if you wish. All this is FREE, I kid you not. As is our in-store consultancy by colour trained staff - that's FREE too. Ten minutes or two hours - that's on us, NO CHARGE.

No other paint company or retailer matches our services.

PLEASE NOTE:

• Our Colours are exclusive to Heritage Paints of Balwyn, Melbourne's House of Colour. They are not available anywhere else.
• Attempts to match these colours by eye or computer can give unsatisfactory results causing disappointment.
• All Our Colours are in Haymes Ultra-premium paint. Variations can occur if formulated in other brand paints.
• The colour you see on your computer screen, and the actual colour itself, may vary. Unfortunately, this is beyond our control. We recommend your testing of each colour before purchasing any paint. We loan out test pots free of charge of all Our Colours.
• Country and interstate enquiries welcome!

INTERIOR:

NOTE: The following combinations may of course be varied to match your floor coverings, drapes, rugs, tiles, cushions, furniture etc, and, of course, your personal tastes. They are designed to show you what is possible.

To save time, effort, money and argument, two things need to be decided upon early in your deliberations...

A shade for the Woodwork (trim) and Doors' --
The simplest way is to use the same colour for these items in every room. This gives a desired connecting theme throughout. This colour is often a neutral pale cream or eggshell. We suggest Jeeves or 1/8 Orient. Just the same, lots of very successful colour schemes have the trim a different shade in special areas such as the dining room, master bedroom or study.

A shade for the ceilings:
As with trim and doors, one colour throughout simplifies life and saves dosh by only having to purchase one (large) tin of paint. Most popular is an off-white or milk shade, something neutral that reflects plenty of light. Alternatively, a lighter version of your wall colour. Not white! unless yours is to be an all-white home. White is cold and creates glare. Use a warm off-white which still has excellent light reflection. Again, special rooms and colour schemes might demand ceilings of cream, stone, or pale taupe.

See also Our Interior & Exterior Rules on our "Colour Tips" page.

ELEVEN INTERIOR TIPS

PREPARATION

Good preparation of the surface to be painted is most important. See also Primers/Sealers & Undercoats. Without proper preparation, your paint may not stick. It may come away, it may not cover as it should, or it may look unsightly which undermines all your time and effort. It also costs money.

Look on preparation as part of the job like digging the garden or joining a long queue to get into a grand final. It'll pay off in the end.

So much for the sermon.

Interior Preparation Tips:

1. BE CERTAIN ALL SURFACES TO BE PAINTED ARE CLEAN. Wash down old paint. Paint won't stick to grease, smoke, soap residue, finger marks, grime, dust, etc. Use tricleanium or sugar soap available from any paint or hardware store.
2. ALWAYS SAND SMOOTH EVERY SURFACE (TIMBER, PLASTER OR PAINT) PRIOR TO PAINTING. REMOVE DUST. Use No. 180 grit sandpaper for plaster and unpainted timber; No. 120 Grit for painted woodwork. This removes much of the gloss to provide a key and removes any nibs and roughness.
3. NEW UNPAINTED PLASTER must be wiped down to remove the plasterer's dust, especially at the joins. Leave it and your paint will fall off. Paint won't stick to dust!
4. REMOVE ALL LOOSE AND FLAKING PAINT. Then apply an acrylic sealer to the area. Understand that there are two main causes of flaking paint. One is the presence of damp (old or new); the other is kalsomine, an old-fashioned coating prior to the 1960.'s. If you have flaking paint, click on "Problems".
5. PATCHED AREAS (PLASTER). Patched areas can appear through topcoats. For minor patches, first spot seal with acrylic sealer. For larger patched areas that dominate the wall, apply the sealer to the whole wall. Then apply topcoats.
6. WALLS CURRENTLY IN LOW SHEEN OR MATT AND IN GOOD, CLEAN CONDITION (SAY, RECENTLY PAINTED): Apply two (2) topcoats straight on. No sealer or undercoat required, unless it's a very dark colour then a sealer/undercoat is advised. You might sand and dust first.
7. SURFACE FROM WHICH WALLPAPER HAS BEEN REMOVED: Determine that all traces of glue have been removed or at least sanded level. Apply a coat of acrylic sealer/undercoat then topcoats.
8. PRESSED METAL: First look for rust spots. If present, sand smooth the area, apply a rust inhibitor, then two (2) coats of metal primer to be sure, followed by acrylic sealer/undercoat, finishing with two (2) topcoats.
9. FILLERS: Gap Filler comes in a long thin tube and requires a squeeze "gun" to apply it, although hand-squeeze tubes are available. Use in elongated cracks - e.g. where the cornice meets the walls or ceiling, or where skirting boards and architraves have come away from the wall. Not for cracks in plaster.
   
   Powder Fillers: Such as Polyfilla and Cornice Adhesive. Mix to the label's instructions. Best for cracks and imperfections in plaster and timber. Cheap, easy to use.
   
   Ready-Mixed Fillers: Many types on the market. Some (Nordsjo) better than others. Some have specific uses, such as skim coating and mirror finishing (see below). A "uni-filler" will do most general work including nail holes. Not best for larger holes - they shrink. Try "Agnews", then finish in a uni-filler. Do not overfill - they dry rock hard.
10. MIRROR FINISHING: For the pedants - a lot of work but the rewards can make it worthwhile. Mere mortals will be happy to go with the usual procedure of fill, sand, undercoat, sand, topcoat.
    
    True "Mirror finishing" can only be achieved with a high gloss enamel finish. But, an excellent velvet finish can result with semi gloss or low sheen enamels, or "Haymes Gloss Acrylic Trim Paint" using the following method.
    
    Understand that excessive brush marks in your finished work usually originate from the undercoat, not the topcoat. Those brush marks must be filled and sanded prior to applying the topcoat/s to achieve a superior finish.

Here is a simplified method (previously painted surfaces):

(a) Fill all cracks and imperfections carefully.
(b) Sand smooth, removing most of the gloss on the existing paint.
(c) Dust Down.
(d) Apply one (1) coat of "Haymes Ezy-Sand" (water-based) or "Haymes General Purpose Undercoat" (oil based), tinted to the colour chosen. Allow to dry.
(e) "Face-fill" the whole surface with "Nordsco Timber Filler" (comes like toothpaste), using a 2" - 3" flexible blade, in a back and forth motion similar to using a paint brush. Allow to dry.
(f) Using fine sandpaper (No. 320 Grit or Wet'N'Dry) sand and remove the top 10% -
15% of the surface until it's smooth like a baby's bottom. Fill again if necessary and sand smooth.
(g) Remove all traces of dust from the surface and the immediate area. Wipe clean the top edges of doors and windows.
(h) Cover the carpet or floor with clean plastic drop sheets. Remove any fluffy clothing you are wearing (top painters might strip to their underdaks). Cover your hair.
(i) Declare the area a "no-go zone". When painting doors perhaps paint them in an isolated room.
(j) Use a good quality brush - not one that has been used in acrylic (water) paint. (Acrylic dries the bristles).
(k) Roll the doors if you prefer, then "lay-off" with a brush - removes the stipple and mini air bubbles.
(l) Two (2) topcoats are better than one.

For bare timber or M.D.F. apply an acrylic sealer undercoat or timber primer first.

IT'S ALL IN THE PREPARATION!!

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